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Fresh take on classic Italian in Nashua

August 14, 2011

We were attracted to Crush Pizza by a tomato-averse teenager who touted a menu that includes several white pizzas, but we found much more. The Neapolitan pizzeria with a wood-fired brick oven serves steaks tips and chicken dishes as well as pizza. Think a northern version of Santarpio’s of East Boston.

The restaurant was opened earlier this summer by Tony Naser, the owner of a chain of jewelry stores. He has a passion for authentic Neapolitan pizza made with homemade mozzarella, fresh basil, extra-virgin olive oil , and Italian tomatoes that have been grown on volcanic plains, then hand-crushed: thus the restaurant’s name.

Crush’s pizzas are cooked in a matter of seconds - 90, the restaurant’s menu says - with the wood-burning oven set at 900 degrees.

Crush has five “pizza bianco’’ offerings: the Toscana ($14), with pan-seared field mushrooms, mozzarella and Romano cheeses, and a garlic cream sauce with a drizzle of truffle oil; Pista ($13), with fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, red onion, and pistachio (yes, pistachio); Quarto Formaggi ($13), with four cheeses - buffalo mozzarella, gran cru, caciocavallo, and Parmigiano-Reggiano; Parma ($15), with mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula; and the Pizza del Rey ( $17), with mozzarella, field mushrooms, prosciutto, and black truffle spread.

We tried the Pizza del Rey, which was truly fit for a king and one of the best pizzas we’ve ever had, even without the tomato sauce. The Pista more than met the tomato-averse teen’s lofty standards.

We went back to Crush several times and sampled several other pizzas, each adequate to feed one person if eaten without anything on the side.

We tried the Margherita ($10), with crushed tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh basil; the Capri ($13), with crushed tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, pan-seared field mushrooms, ham, olives, and artichoke drizzled with olive oil; and the Fungi ($11), with pan-seared field mushrooms, crushed tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, also with extra-virgin olive oil.

But Crush is not just about pizza. The steak tips ($15), 12-plus ounces of meat, arrived juicy and sizzling, accompanied by a cucumber salad and grilled peppers. The marinated beef practically melted in our mouths.

AUTHENTIC WOOD FIRED
PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA